THE GOURMET'S GUIDE TO EUROPE
THE RESTAURANT OF BUCHAREST
Capsa's Restaurant takes a high place amongst the good restaurants of the world. Capsa is a Frenchman who has learned his duties as cook and confectioner in some of the best houses of Paris, and coming to Bucarest, he has brought French taste to bear upon the cookery of the country, and at his restaurant there is always a choice of dishes of Bulgaria, and of French plats.
...Capsa's list of the Roumanian wines may safely be taken as a guide to what is best of the country vintages. Dragasani, Odobesti, Cotnar, Tamaiosa are the white wines, some of which are of vintages as distant in date as 1879; and the red wines are Nicoresti, Odobesti, and Dealu mare. A bottle of champagne of G. H. Mumm's " Cordon Rouge"of no guaranteed year costs 22 francs, and a bottle of Allsopp's Pale Ale costs 5 francs 50 centimes. At Capsa's all the waiters have a knowledge of French, and that language is generally talked by the habitues of the restaurant, for a Roumanian of the upper classes is always proud of speaking French with Parisian fluency and accent.
Sinaia is the hill station in the Carpathians where the King and Queen of Roumania have built their summer palace. The village is intentionally kept small, and there are only three hotels. Two good express trains run both ways during the day, and the journey from Bucarest is not a long one, and is interesting.
At Ploesci, a junction on the line where all trains stop, there is a refreshment room where a cheap and plentiful table d'hote meal is served. Sinaia is very fashionable in the summer, for most of the ministers and many of the foreign diplomatists follow the King and Queen up to the picturesque village in the woods below the great grey crags. Capsa has a gay little restaurant on the Boulevard Ghica, a little pavilion of iron and glass, painted and gilt, which is open during the summer months; and George Riegler has a dainty little coffee-house and terrace and a tiny garden where a cascade falls over miniature boulders next door to one of the bandstands.
The Hotel Caraiman, on a hill just above the station, is open summer and winter. In summer it is crowded to its holding capacity. In winter a score of guests have the big hotel to themselves. I can answer for the meals at the hotel being simple and well cooked, and a stranger arriving during the " offseason"is flattered with much attention."